Elie Saab Fall 2016 Couture

“This was an exceptional Elie Saab collection because of how expressive it was. Birds flocked on the skirt of a gown with a black velvet bodice; hearts appeared as prints and as crystal embroideries. And there were all manner of flowers—picked out in yellow, light blue, Bordeaux, and black beads on tulle; embroidered in 3-D on Chantilly lace; and appliquéd in watercolor silk on another graceful gown. That hardly sounds like a novelty at couture, where flowers are many designers’ stock in trade, but Saab has always preferred a monochromatic look, most often with shimmery tone-on-tone embroidery. His embrace of … Continue reading Elie Saab Fall 2016 Couture

Viktor & Rolf Fall 2016 Couture

Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren transformed their old collections into dramatic new clothes. This wasn’t an ordinary exercise in upcycling or a trip down memory lane. Rather, it relied on varying proportions of everyday base layers handwoven with leftover fabrics, boosted with swirling tulle volumes and embellished with heaps of hardware and buttons. Essentially, the designers performed a wondrous feat of conflating rag rugs with riches. Looks that grew from old army jackets and vintage jeans could be described as surplus-plus-plus. During a walk-through, the designers pointed to a jacket that featured scraps from Hyères, their first collection dating back … Continue reading Viktor & Rolf Fall 2016 Couture

Fendi Fall 2016 Couture

Last July, Fendi marked Karl Lagerfeld’s 50th year at the Italian house with a Paris haute show. The designer is famously averse to birthdays and anniversaries—“I don’t look back,” he’s fond of saying—but the house wasn’t going to let a milestone like its own 90th slip by quietly. With the couture shows wrapping up in Paris, Fendi shuttled guests by chartered plane to Rome for another haute show today. They secured the Trevi Fountain of La Dolce Vita fame for the event, fresh off a $2.4 million, one-and-a-half-year rehab. The fountains turned on, and the models started their march over a see-through … Continue reading Fendi Fall 2016 Couture